Fatehpur Sikri history is a fascinating tale of ambition, grandeur, and eventual abandonment. Built by Emperor Akbar in the late 16th century, this “City of Victory” was meant to be the heart of his empire.

However, within a few decades, it was left deserted. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offering visitors a glimpse into Mughal architecture and royal life.

As it turns out, I (Noelle) have some strong feelings about our visit here. Fatehpur Sikri’s history is fascinating, and I loved learning about it, especially about the women who lived there.

On the other hand, this visit was my worst experience in India with hawkers and harassment. So, while I loved some aspects of this part of our Golden Triangle tour, other elements have left me sad and maybe even a little angry.

Where is Fatehpur Sikri Located?

Fatehpur Sikri is located in Uttar Pradesh, India, about 25 miles (40 kilometers) west of Agra. The drive from Agra takes approximately 1 hour, making it a popular day-trip destination from the city.

Timings and Entry Fees for Fatehpur Sikri

Timings: Fatehpur Sikri is open daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM. To avoid the midday heat, visit in the early morning or late afternoon.

Entry Fees:

• Indian citizens: ₹50 per person
• Foreign tourists: ₹610 per person
• Children under 15: Free entry
• Bus ride from parking lot to historical site: ₹25 per person

Purchase tickets at the entrance. There’s a ticket booth and a sign with a QR code to pay online. Visitors should also budget for transportation and guide fees for a more detailed tour.

Our driver, Rakesh, told us the guide cost ₹500, so that’s what we paid at the end of the tour. However, the tour guide gave Steve a pretty dirty look, as if it wasn’t enough. It was way too much in this instance, but more about that later.

The Rise and Fall of Akbar’s Grand Capital

In 1569, Emperor Akbar was desperate for an heir. So, he traveled to the small village of Sikri to seek the blessings of the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti. Soon after, his son, Jahangir, was born. Convinced that this was a sign of divine favor, Akbar decided to build a grand new capital at Sikri.

Let’s delve into some history in this Fatehpur Sikri travel guide!

Akbar’s Vision for a New Capital

The plan was ambitious. Akbar envisioned a city unlike any other, one that reflected his growing empire and his ideas of governance, art, and faith. He wanted Fatehpur Sikri to be more than just a political center—it would be a place where different cultures and religions could come together.

Construction began in 1571. Skilled artisans, masons, and workers from across the empire arrived to make Akbar’s dream a reality. They used red sandstone to build magnificent palaces, towering gates, and vast courtyards. Within 15 years, Fatehpur Sikri was complete, representing Akbar’s vision and determination.

At its peak, the city was alive with royal processions, diplomatic meetings, and cultural exchanges. It was a hub of power and innovation, where Akbar debated philosophy with scholars and hosted grand celebrations.

For a short time, Fatehpur Sikri was the beating heart of the Mughal Empire. But its glory was not meant to last.

Keep reading: Baby Taj Agra, Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb: Why the Baby Taj is Worth Visiting

Fatehpur Sikri History: Akbar’s Wives

Emperor Akbar was one of the greatest rulers of the Mughal Empire. And he had several wives who played significant roles in his court and administration. His marriages were political alliances that helped him strengthen ties with different kingdoms and cultures.

In the evenings, Akbar and his wives sat outside his palace to hear music or watch plays. Musicians went into the middle of the pond so their voices would then echo off the waters for everyone to hear.

Each wife had her own home and position in Fatehpur Sikri history. Akbar took turns visiting wives at their residences. However, they never went to his residence since it’s where he entertained his concubines.

Our guide showed us the “back door,” where the women could come and go without being seen in the central courtyard.

Unlike many rulers of his time, Akbar was known for his religious tolerance. He allowed his wives to practice their religions freely. And he even participated in spiritual discussions with scholars from different faiths.

Keep reading about the wives and concubines in Amber Fort.

Although there were at least ten others, here are some of Akbar’s most well-known wives. In addition to their residences, each wife had her own temple for worship.

1. Mariam-uz-Zamani (Jodha Bai) – Hindu

Jodha Bai was Akbar’s favorite wife and a Rajput Hindu princess from the kingdom of Amer (modern-day Jaipur, Rajasthan). Despite marrying Akbar, she continued to practice Hinduism and was allowed to maintain Hindu temples and rituals within the Mughal court. Akbar deeply respected her faith and even participated in Hindu festivals like Diwali.

Our guide told us that one of the wives was Catholic, and some websites hint that it was Mariam. The mystery is whether or not she actually came from Portugal and not Amer.

Another interesting thing about her is that her name was never Jodha Bai, even though that’s what she’s called today. A 19th-century historian inaccurately called her by that name, and it stuck.

Since she was the mother of Akbar’s successor, Emperor Jahangir, Mariam had significant influence in the Mughal court. She was also one of Akbar’s most respected queens. He gave her the title Mariam-uz-Zamani, meaning “Mary, Compassionate of the Age.”

Of course, he also gave her the largest house because she gave him the first male child. Her palace is a fusion of Hindu and Mughal architecture with ornate carvings, lattice windows, and open courtyards. Jodha Bai’s Palace at Fatehpur Sikri must have been beautiful in its heyday.

2. Ruqaiya Sultan Begum – Muslim (Sunni Islam)

Begum was a Mughal princess from a Sunni Muslim background who followed Islamic traditions. Ruqaiya Sultan Begum was officially called “Begum,” a title traditionally given to royal and noble Muslim women in the Mughal Empire.

She was Akbar’s first wife and married him when they were both children. He was 9 years old and the recently appointed governor of Ghazni. She was a descendant of Emperor Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire.

As Akbar’s first wife and chief consort, she had a significant influence in court and had a prominent role in the Mughal administration.

3. Salima Sultan Begum – Muslim (Shia Islam)

Salima Sultan Begum was a Persian-born Mughal princess and the daughter of a high-ranking noble. She first married Bairam Khan, a powerful Mughal general and Akbar’s uncle.

After becoming a widow, she joined Akbar’s court and became one of his most trusted wives and advisors. She was highly respected for her intelligence and deep knowledge of Persian poetry and politics.

As a Shia Muslim in a predominantly Sunni court, she held a unique position. Her wisdom and diplomatic skills made her an influential figure in the Mughal administration.

Salim Chishti’s Tomb

The tomb of Salim Chishti, a revered Sufi saint, is in Fatehpur Sikri. Built by Emperor Akbar in the late 16th century, the white marble tomb (dargah) stands in the courtyard of the Jama Masjid. It’s an impressive site!

The tomb is also an important pilgrimage site, where visitors tie threads on the marble screens, believing it will fulfill their wishes. The thought is that if the Shaikh could bless Akbar to father a son, Prince Salim, he could also bless others.

A Rogue Tour Guide

I was looking forward to this section of our visit, wanting to tie my own string and make my own offering. However, our tour guide was a hustler with little information to share. But what he did know was how to lie about the cost of purchasing a string and offering.

Typically, I’d give him the benefit of the doubt and say he was simply upselling. But this guy was over the top. He said it cost ₹2000 ($23) each and that we give him the money and he goes inside to get it for us.

When I said I didn’t want to pay that much, he got very angry, telling me it was for charity. He loudly tried shaming me for not paying the price.

To be clear, there’s a warning about this very thing when entering the complex. It says, “Tourists may be warned: the price of a chhadar between Rs. 50/- to Rs. 500/- According to size. Do not be misguide while making offering at the dargah.”

We walked through the tomb anyway, even though it wasn’t the experience I hoped for. It left such a bad taste in my mouth, like I’d done something terribly wrong for not paying the tour guide’s bribe.

I know that he would’ve pocketed ₹1500 from each of us and only gave a smaller amount. So, instead, I just placed some cash on the offering table and didn’t get to tie a string. It was an unfortunate experience.

Daily Life in Fatehpur Sikri

During its time as the Mughal capital, Fatehpur Sikri was a lively city filled with nobles, traders, artisans, and common people. Life revolved around the royal court, bustling markets, and religious sites.

The Fatehpur Sikri history says it combines Persian, Hindu, and Islamic architectural styles. According to legend, it also contains an elephant graveyard. Akbar’s favorite elephant, Hiran, has a giant tower embedded with elephant tusks on his burial ground to show the king’s love for him.

Other versions of the tower is that Akbar sat atop it to watch elephant fights and/or polo matches. More likely it was the symbol to mark the town’s center. For example, if you drew a circle around the whole town, including its lake, Hiran Minar is the center. It was the focal point around which the town’s planning centered.

Although it wasn’t very far from the terrace we stood upon, the Elephant Tower was almost lost in the smog.

Meeting With the Emperor

The royal court was the center of administration. Officials, scribes, and ministers worked in the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience), where Akbar met the general public.

After hearing disputes, Akbar sometimes settled them by sentencing someone to death. Our guide told us the execution occurred immediately by an elephant trampling the accused. I’m not sure how accurate that it, but it makes for a good story.

Although the buildings around the square are now boarded up, they were homes to the artisans and craftsmen who built the town and made the intricate carvings. Instead of the white plaster, imagine open rooms with currents for doors.

The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) is where Akbar held discussions with scholars and religious leaders. Together, they managed the empire’s affairs.

The private hall features a famous central pillar with intricate carvings. Akbar stood atop it on the second level and his advisors stood around him in the four corners.

Panch Mahal or 5-Level Palace is a five-story structure with open pavilions designed for royal leisure. The tiers get smaller as they rise until the top floor is a single dome or chhatri. Historians believe ladies of the court sat behind stone screens. One hundred seventy-six carved columns support each level.

Artisans and craftsmen played a key role in the city. They created intricate stone carvings, textiles, and weaponry for the royal court and military. Their skills helped shape the city’s unique architecture and culture.

The bazaars were full of activity, with traders selling spices, silk, jewelry, and pottery. Persia and Central Asia merchants traveled here to do business, making it an important trade hub. The wives had their own private market.

Worshipping in Fatehpur Sikri

Religion and culture thrived in Fatehpur Sikri. The Jama Masjid was a place of worship for the city’s residents. It’s still a place of worship today, one of the largest mosques of its time. The mosque’s central courtyard can accommodate thousands of worshippers.

Visitors enter the mosque (masjid)  through the Buland Darwaza Fatehpur Sikri. It’s a 177-foot (54-meter) high “Door of Victory” or “Exalted Gate” built to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat.

Its intricate carvings and grand scale make it one of the most impressive gateways in India.

Many people also visited Sheikh Salim Chishti’s dargah (shrine) to seek blessings. Music, poetry, and art flourished under Akbar’s rule.

Daily life was simple but active. People fetched water from step wells, children played in courtyards, and royal processions moved through the city. The streets were always filled with movement and energy.

Why Was Fatehpur Sikri Abandoned?

The city was founded in 1571, and despite its grandeur, Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned around 1585. Several theories explain why:

• Water Shortage
• Political Shifts
• Climatic Conditions

The biggest reason people say the city came to ruin is because the water ran out. And that may be part of the story.

Today, most historians agree Akbar abandoned the city when he went to fight in Punjab. By 1610, it was completely empty. So, even though there may have been a water supply failure, Akbar’s loss of interest in the city may have been its actual downfall.

Keep reading: Golden Triangle Tour: The Ultimate Travel Guide to Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur

A Word About Tour Guides & Hawkers

The tour guide business can sometimes be a scam. So many men will approach and ask if you want a guide. They all say, “Free, free, but if you happy, you pay 500.” You have almost no way of knowing if the person is a legitimate guide or trying to earn a few bucks.

Additionally, in our experience, one role of tour guides is to protect you from all the hawkers. Many locals sell bracelets, pashmina shawls, and trinkets at every tourist site. And usually, they’ll show their wares, ask you to buy, and let you move on.

However, our tour guide was a large part of the problem. His Fatehpur Sikri history was incorrect. And as I mentioned, he tried to rip us off at the tomb offering. Then, he harangued me when I wouldn’t buy a bracelet from a guy who chased me down.

It’s impossible to make a purchase from every single vendor that hits you up. We’d be broke in a day, without exaggeration. But this guy kept following me and shoving his bracelets at me. He was very close, very loud, and touching me, which intimidated and even frightened me.

Steve stepped between him and me and very firmly told him no, thank you. But the guy wouldn’t stop. Then our tour guide loudly told me I should buy something from him. He made the bracelets by hand, and I should support the local people.

Is Anything Handmade?

The real story is that he didn’t make them by hand, and almost nothing sold on India’s streets is handmade. A trustworthy driver later told us they all get items from China from the Alibaba app. (Even fake cashews made from milk powder, not even kidding.)

I literally started crying because the harassment was so intense. Steve was trying to shield me, and people were staring. Okay, maybe they weren’t, but it felt like it. Guides usually tell the hawkers to leave you alone after a bit, but this guy teamed up with him and tried to make me feel as bad as he could.

We just asked to leave and return to our car. Our poor driver, Rakesh, knew something was wrong but didn’t know what. Even then, I didn’t want to badmouth the tour guide, so I said I was just hot. He had hired the guide, so I should have told him, but instead, I’ll tell all of you…

Keep reading: What to Know for India Travel

What Does The Government Say About Tour Guides?

You can read the whole warning yourself, but apparently, it’s a known fact that the “guides” in this area are troublesome.

It seems anyone and everyone in this neighborhood has the agility to metamorphose into a guide. Qualified guides are available near the ticket counter.
Try to avoid the unauthorized 'guides' who pester the visitors the moment one gets down from the bus.

Taj Mahal Government Website

On our return to the bus to take us back to the parking lot, we saw the phone number to call if we felt harassed by hawkers. However, had I seen it earlier, I would have called.

How to Reach Fatehpur Sikri from Agra

The best way to learn about Fatehpur Sikri history is to arrive by bus, private car, or taxi from Agra. So, it’s an easy day trip.

• By Air – The nearest airport is Agra Airport, which is about 40 km away.
• By Train – Fatehpur Sikri has a railway station, but Agra Cantt (37 km away) is a better-connected option.
• By Road – Easily accessible via NH21, with regular buses and taxis from Agra.

Best Time to Visit Fatehpur Sikri

• October to March – Pleasant weather, ideal for sightseeing
• Avoid summer months (April to June) – High temperatures can make exploration uncomfortable.
• Morning or late afternoon visits – Best for photography and avoiding midday heat.

Tips for Visiting Fatehpur Sikri

• Wear comfortable footwear, as the site requires a lot of walking.
• Hire a local guide to understand the historical significance of each structure. Even though we got a bad apple, a local guide is still the best way to explore Fatehpur Sikri and learn its history.
• Carry water and sunscreen, especially if visiting in warmer months.
• Visit early in the day to avoid the largest crowds.

Conclusion: Fatehpur Sikri History

Fatehpur Sikri’s history is fascinating. It showcases Akbar’s vision and ambition, making it a must-visit for history and architecture lovers. Furthermore, this abandoned city and its impressive structures still captivate visitors from around the world.

Have you been to Fatehpur Sikri? Or have you experienced a tour guide or hawkers like I did? It’s a bummer that I can’t separate that bullying behavior from such a cool place to visit.

Share your experience in the comments!