Visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple in Dharamshala is a great experience. This beautiful town, nestled in the Himalayan foothills of India, has a unique blend of Tibetan culture and mountain scenery.
Noelle here, by the way.
The heart of Dharamshala is Tsuglagkhang, the main Tibetan temple complex. The Dalai Lama lives here when he’s in town. You can visit the temple, and we read that you can see monks praying and debating. But while we saw many monks, we missed the debates and prayers.
The Dalai Lama is the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism. Buddhists believe he is the reincarnation of previous Dalai Lamas and is part of a long line of Buddhist masters.
Born in 1935, Tenzin Gyatso, the current Dalai Lama, was recognized as the reincarnation of his predecessor at a young age. At 15, he assumed political power in Tibet. However, the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950 forced him and thousands of followers to flee to India.
Oddly enough, he reminds me of my Dad, who died in 2020. They look nothing alike and live worlds apart, both figuratively and literally. However, when the Dalai Lama smiles and does his trademark sticking out of his tongue, it’s my Dad! They share an impish smile and a joy for life that fills me with happiness. Visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple made me feel close to Dad for a minute or two.
Keep reading: What to Know For Traveling to India
How To visit the Dalai Lama’s Temple
The Main Tibetan Temple (Tsuglhakhang Complex) is open to the public from 8:00 am to 20:00 daily, except Mondays (closed.) Visit the public areas, book shop, and gift shops at any time.
The museum hours are 9:00 am to 17:00 daily, except Mondays (closed.)
Attending a teaching or public event with the Dalai Lama present takes a little more planning. Check the official website to see his public schedule. Events are free, unless noted.
Ticketed events
the public schedule of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. All events are free and open to the public unless noted. For ticketed events, people are requested to contact the organizers directly or visit the listed websites for further information on tickets.
For all teachings in Dharamsala, registration is required in order to attend. Registration begins a few days before the actual start of the teaching and ends the day before the first day of the teaching. Registration hours are from 9 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 5 pm at the Main Tibetan Temple (Tsuglhakhang) courtyard. For registration purposes, all foreigners need to bring copies of their passport, Indian visa and ‘C’ form. People living in India need to bring copies of their aadhaar card. A nominal fee of Rs. 10 will be charged.
35th Anniversary of Nobel Peace Prize
The Dalai Lama is a Nobel Peace Prize laureate for his nonviolent struggle to liberate Tibet. He advocates for peace, compassion, and human rights worldwide and is known for his warm personality, humor, and deep wisdom. He also strives to preserve Tibetan culture.
The 35th anniversary of the Dalai Lama’s Nobel Peace Prize fell on December 10, 2024, with various events worldwide. We happened to be at the temple on that very day! While we didn’t see his holiness, there were many guests of honor for an all-day stream of dancers and singers.
It was crowded, exciting, and one of the most remarkable happenings imaginable. The air literally buzzed with joy.
Some gentlemen from the temple wound through the crowds to hand out small boxes of sweets. At least, I think they were sweets. I took a box but then thought better of it since the crowd was so huge. I gave the box back so that someone who could appreciate it more could enjoy it.
Keep reading: What to Eat in Dharamshala
Traditional Celebration Dances, Visiting the Dalai Lama Temple
I couldn’t see much of the dancing because of so many people in front of me. So, I kept holding my phone in the air to take short videos. Then I could watch it to see what was happening. Steve, at 6’3”, didn’t have that problem. He could see over everyone.
We pushed our way through the vast crowd of people visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple to the upstairs staging area. There, I could see the performers warming up. So, it was like a pre-show without all the people blocking my view.
I can only imagine the performers’ excitement at singing and dancing during such a special event. Many Tibetan communities honored the Dalai Lama’s lifelong dedication to peace and his compassionate work to preserve his people’s historical and cultural heritage. Some groups were small children, while others were senior citizens. And there was every age in between.
They all seemed as glad to be there as we were to watch them.
Visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple: Spinning the Prayer Wheel
Spinning the prayer wheels is a big part any time you visit the Dalai Lama’s temple in Dharamshala. A sign next to them says, “This is a MANI prayer wheel. It is filled with thousands of Avalokiteshvara mantras “Om Mani Padme Hum.” By turning this wheel once, one earns merit equal to the recitation of the mantras filled inside this wheel. Kindly turn it clockwise.”
Avalokiteshvara is the Patron Deity of Tibet. He’s the Bodhistattva of compassion. That means he’s revered as the embodiment of the Buddha’s selfless, unconditional compassion.
He hears the cries of his people and comes to their aid in times of distress. The Dalai Lama and other important Tibetan spiritual leaders are emanations of Avalokiteshvara. Tibetan Buddhists believe they are physical manifestations or reincarnations of the Bodhisattva of compassion. It signifies a deep spiritual connection and lineage.
Avalokiteshvara is often shown with eleven heads and a thousand arms, symbolizing his ability to perceive and respond to the needs of all beings in all directions. He’s also associated with the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum” a powerful tool for cultivating compassion and achieving enlightenment.
The practice of Avalokiteshvara meditation is central to all major Tibetan Buddhist traditions. It involves visualizing oneself as Avalokiteshvara, cultivating compassion for all beings, and reciting his mantra. This practice helps develop compassion, wisdom, and spiritual liberation.
Keep reading: Akshardham Temple: A Spiritual Journey
Now, I don’t know precisely what it means to earn merit. I think it may be similar to Catholics who earn merit through prayer and spiritual practices, charity acts, and living a virtuous life.
When visiting the Dalai Lama’s temples, find the prayer wheels on three sides of the chapel where the Dalai Lama teaches from. It feels sacred just being there. Spinning the prayer wheels gives me a sense of peace and a connection to others. I’m not sure that I earn any merit, but I do like the feeling of connection. So, that’s why I choose to spin them.
The Downside of Dharamshala
There is one part I didn’t like about visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple. There are many women with babies outside of it. They follow you down the street, asking for “no money, just rice.” It’s impossible to help every single one of them.
I tried approaching the situation with sensitivity and awareness. Many people in the region (and all of India we’ve seen so far) face poverty and limited economic opportunities. Some families also lack access to adequate social support systems.
However, in some cultures, begging is a way to survive or seek assistance. Near our old neighborhood, the same young lady waited at stop lights to ask for change. But when we went home recently, we still saw her there—older and a bit more ragged, but still with a huge smile. Seeing her again after many years made me wonder if this was her chosen path. Maybe she didn’t plan this way of living, but she seems comfortable with it.
Does Giving Money Help or Not?
I wonder if it’s the same for some of these women with babies. Unfortunately, there may also be instances of organized begging or exploitation. More than one driver tells us not to give money. Just like in the States and worldwide really, giving directly to individuals can sometimes perpetuate the cycle of poverty.
I don’t know the right answer here. Instead, I try to listen to my heart. Most days, I carry a pocketful of change. If I feel a little tug to give, I hand over some change and continue walking without breaking stride. It’s the best way I’ve learned to make peace with the begging we experience. I don’t need to know their motives. Instead, I give as I feel led.
You can’t travel to India without encountering poverty. So, I’d rather share my experiences than sugarcoat them.
Explore the Church of St. John in the Wilderness
You might hear from your hotel’s travel person that after visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple, you may also want to see a beautiful Catholic church. And usually, we’re all for visiting churches. My all-time favorite is St. Paul’s Outside the Wall in Rome. We’ve been there on two different Italy trips, and it’s a place that calls to me. I know it sounds odd, but it seems magical to me.
Another of my favorite churches is Cambodia’s enormous Angkor Wat temple complex. If you like exploring history and religious sites, visit Angkor Wat and Rome!
At any rate, the Church of St. John in the Wilderness was closed during our visit. We still wandered around the grounds for all of about ten minutes. The building is lovely, but don’t make it your sole destination.
Keep reading: Top Things to Do in Dharamshala
Tips for Visiting the Dalai Lama’s Temple
Here are a few tips for making the most of your time while visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple. Check out our full article about things to do in Dharamshala.
When to Go to Dharamshala
We visited Dharamshala in December without realizing how close the town is to the mountains. That meant it was super cold during our visit. The average temperature in McLeod Ganj in December is:
- High: Around 55°F (13°C)
- Low: Around 36°F (2°C)
Don’t worry because plenty of shops and street vendors sell jackets, hats, and scarves. Plus, the hotel gave us a space heater for our room. It took the chill off…barely. Interestingly, most buildings do not have central heating. So, we stayed cold a lot.
The best time to visit is usually during the spring (March-June) or fall (September-November) when the weather is pleasant. I’m glad we went when we did so we could witness the celebration at the temple. But warmer temps are inviting, too.
How to Get to Dharamshala
You can fly to Dharamshala or travel there by road.
- Kangra Airport (Gaggal Airport) is in Gaggal, Himachal Pradesh, India. It’s a domestic airport about 15 kilometers from Dharamshala.
- We took a bus to Dharamshala from Amritsar. It took about five hours, including a lunch stop. Dharamshala is just under 100 kilometers away, but the roads are small and often gravel, so travel is slow.
Where to Stay When Visiting the Dalai Lama’s Temple
There are many places to stay, from budget-friendly guesthouses to more luxurious hotels. Our tour guide, Zahoor, booked us at The Posh Hotel in McLeod Ganj. The location could not be more perfect!
We enjoyed a complimentary, cook-to-order breakfast daily, with a Sunday buffet breakfast. Our room was very nice, with a small balcony and partial mountain views. There’s also a rooftop deck where we worked, with the grandest views. It reminded us of Italy’s Cinque Terre, with colorful houses perched along the mountainsides.
Several excellent restaurants surround the Posh. Plus, it’s a short walk uphill to the market and shops. We were a ten-minute walk from visiting the Dalai Lama’s temple. I’d highly recommend this hotel and its location.
Dharamshala is a special place that offers unique spiritual experiences, stunning scenery, and rich culture. It’s an excellent destination for peace, adventure, or a relaxing getaway.
Tour Guide Contact Info
Here’s the contact information for Zahoor, who helped us navigate northern India and the Golden Triangle. He’s based in New Delhi, but he kept in touch with us regularly.
We found him very knowledgeable, with a large base of local hotels for any budget. He’s booked us low-cost hotels and luxury ones, depending on the area and our requests.
Zahoor’s team coordinated our transportation and drivers, so we didn’t need to worry about getting where we wanted to be. He took care of every detail. We don’t make any money as an affiliate for him, so this is just our suggestion for one of many tour operators.
107, Scindia House, Janpath, Connaught Place, New Delhi 110001
Zahoor +91 98912 64450, WhatsApp
India’s Best Driver
Along the same lines, here’s the contact info for our favorite driver in Delhi and the Golden Triangle, Rakesh. He’s part of Zahoor’s team, too.
Rakesh even took us to the doctor in Delhi when we were both so sick after our arrival. Of course, he teased us for the next couple of months about not getting us spicy food.
Reach Rakesh on WhatsApp at +91 99589 62179. He’ll take great care of you!
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